A basic 8×10 resin shed costs $800 to $1,500 delivered in 2026; a wood kit of the same size runs $2,000 to $3,500 plus a weekend of assembly; and a contractor-built custom 10×12 wood shed lands in the $5,000 to $12,000 range depending on finish and extras. The wide spread comes down to three variables: size, material, and how much of the work you're doing yourself. A shed is one of the few outdoor projects where the sticker price and the out-the-door price can match if you pick a prefab unit and assemble it on a level base — or balloon into five figures if you want custom-built with electric and a loft.
Sheds scale differently than most structures. Double the footprint and you roughly double the material cost, but the labor multiple is steeper because larger sheds take more than twice as long to frame and side. A 12×16 custom shed doesn't cost twice what an 8×12 costs — it's closer to 2.5× or 3×, which catches people off guard when they're mentally budgeting by square footage. The foundation is the other surprise: a gravel pad is cheap, but a poured slab can cost as much as a budget shed.
Shed cost by size and type
| Size | Resin/vinyl (prefab) | Wood kit (DIY assembly) | Custom-built (contractor) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8×10 (80 sq ft) | $800–$1,500 | $2,000–$3,500 | $4,000–$7,000 |
| 10×12 (120 sq ft) | $1,200–$2,200 | $3,000–$5,000 | $5,000–$9,000 |
| 12×16 (192 sq ft) | $2,000–$3,500 | $4,500–$7,500 | $8,000–$14,000 |
| 12×20 (240 sq ft) | N/A | $6,000–$10,000 | $10,000–$18,000 |
Resin sheds cap out around 12×16 because the material can't span much larger without sagging or needing internal supports that defeat the point of a molded shell. Wood and metal kits go bigger, up to 12×20 or 12×24, and custom-built sheds are limited only by local setback rules and your budget. The cost-per-square-foot metric is misleading here: small sheds cost more per square foot because you're paying for doors, a roof, and a floor regardless of size, and those fixed costs dominate on an 8×8 but shrink proportionally on a 12×20.
Material showdown: resin vs metal vs wood
The material you pick determines not just cost but how long the shed lasts, how much maintenance it demands, and whether you'll still be happy with it in five years. Here's the unvarnished take on each.
Resin / vinyl sheds are blow-molded plastic panels that snap together in a few hours. They're lightweight, never need painting, and don't rot or rust. The floor is usually included — a grid of plastic that's fine for a lawnmower but will flex under anything truly heavy. Resin sheds work well for basic storage in mild climates, but they're not robust. A heavy snow load can buckle the roof, and UV exposure makes them brittle after a decade. They also look exactly like what they are: plastic storage boxes. If you need cheap, fast, and low-maintenance for light-duty storage, resin wins. If you're storing expensive tools or want something that'll last twenty years, spend more.
Metal sheds are galvanized steel panels bolted to a steel frame. They're fireproof, rodent-proof, and cheap — often the lowest per-square-foot option for medium sizes. The downsides are condensation (anything inside gets damp unless you add ventilation), noise (rain on a metal roof is loud), and the fact that a dent is permanent. Metal sheds also look industrial, which is fine for a backyard corner but less appealing if the shed is visible from the street. They last 15–20 years in dry climates, less near the coast where salt air accelerates rust.
Wood sheds cost the most but feel like real buildings. You can paint or stain them to match your house, add windows and shelves, insulate them, and run electric if you want a workshop instead of just storage. Wood sheds are also the only type you can realistically customize on-site — adding a porch, a loft, or a Dutch door is straightforward with wood framing. The catch is maintenance: plan on re-staining or painting every few years, and inspect the roof and floor for rot annually. Treated lumber resists decay, but it's not immune. A well-built wood shed will outlast you if maintained; a neglected one can be half-rotted in a decade.
| Material | Cost range (10×12) | Lifespan | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Resin / vinyl | $1,200–$2,200 | 10–15 yrs | Hose down; UV degrades over time |
| Metal (galvanized) | $1,000–$2,000 | 15–20 yrs | Check for rust; repaint scratches |
| Wood kit (DIY) | $3,000–$5,000 | 20–30 yrs | Stain/paint every 3–5 yrs; roof/floor checks |
| Wood custom-built | $5,000–$9,000 | 30+ yrs | Same as kit; higher quality = less upkeep |
Foundation options: gravel, skids, piers, or concrete
The shed sits on something, and that something matters more than most people realize. A shed on bare dirt will settle unevenly, the floor will rot in a year, and the doors won't close. The foundation doesn't have to be elaborate, but it has to be level and it has to drain.
The cheapest option is a gravel pad — 4 to 6 inches of compacted gravel, leveled with a rake and tamper. Gravel drains well, costs $1 to $3 per square foot in materials, and takes a few hours to spread and level. It's adequate for smaller sheds (up to 10×12) on reasonably flat ground. The gravel calculator will tell you exactly how many cubic yards you need for a pad of any size and depth.
Concrete pier blocks are precast blocks that sit on tamped gravel; the shed's floor frame rests on top. They're fast, adjustable, and cheap (about $5 to $10 per block), and they work well for sheds up to 12×16. The catch is that the ground has to be pretty level to start — if you're on a slope, you'll spend more time shimming and leveling than you would have pouring a slab.
A concrete slab is the most permanent and expensive option — typically $4 to $8 per square foot for materials and labor, which adds $500 to $1,500 to the project depending on size. A slab keeps the shed bone-dry, never settles, and gives you a smooth, solid floor that's a pleasure to work on. It's overkill for a resin storage shed but makes sense for a workshop or anything you're wiring for power. The concrete calculator sizes the slab and counts bags if you're mixing it yourself.
Foundation quick guide
- Gravel pad: Best for small sheds (8×10 or smaller) and tight budgets. Drains well; can settle over time.
- Pier blocks: Mid-range cost and durability; works for sheds up to 12×16. Requires level ground.
- Concrete slab: Most expensive; most permanent. Ideal for workshops, large sheds, or anywhere with poor drainage.
- Skids (pressure-treated 4×4s): Budget DIY option; elevates floor off the ground. Works well on flat, dry sites.
Prefab vs kit vs custom-built: the real differences
The three tiers of sheds aren't just price points — they're fundamentally different products with different owners in mind.
Prefab resin or metal sheds arrive as a flatpack, assemble in a few hours with basic tools, and require zero carpentry skill. You're trading customization and longevity for speed and simplicity. These are storage solutions, not structures. If you need a place to stash lawn equipment and you're not particular about aesthetics or a 30-year lifespan, prefab works fine.
Wood kits are the middle ground. You get precut lumber, a hardware pack, and instructions; you supply the labor. A 10×12 kit takes a full weekend to assemble if you're handy and have a helper. The result looks and functions like a real shed, you can customize it (paint, shelves, a window), and it'll last 20+ years with maintenance. This is the sweet spot for most homeowners who want a shed that feels like part of the property without paying contractor rates.
Custom-built sheds are stick-framed on-site by a contractor or a skilled DIYer. You control every detail — size, siding, roof pitch, door placement, windows, loft, electric, insulation. The cost is 2–3× a kit, but you get exactly what you want and it's built to last. Custom makes sense for workshops, she-sheds, studios, or anywhere the shed is a focal point of the yard. It also makes sense if your site is sloped or oddly shaped and a standard footprint won't fit.
Doors, windows, and the cost of extras
The base shed price assumes a single door and no windows. Upgrading or adding features stacks up fast:
- Double doors: $200–$500 extra; essential if you're storing a riding mower or large equipment.
- Windows: $100–$300 each installed; nice for natural light in a workshop.
- Loft / shelving: $300–$800 for a built-in loft or heavy-duty shelves.
- Electric wiring: $500–$2,000 depending on distance from the house and whether you need a dedicated circuit.
- Insulation: $200–$600 for basic wall and ceiling insulation in a 10×12 shed.
- Roofing upgrade: Asphalt shingles to match the house add $300–$800 over basic roll roofing.
Each upgrade nudges the project closer to the custom-built price range, which is fine if you're using the shed as a workspace or studio. For pure storage, skip the extras and pocket the savings.
A worked example: 10×12 wood kit with gravel pad
You're assembling a 10×12 wood kit shed yourself, placing it on a 4-inch gravel pad, no electric or extras.
- Shed area: 10 × 12 = 120 sq ft
- Wood kit delivered: $3,500
- Gravel pad (4″ deep, ~130 sq ft including margin): ~3 cubic yards @ $45/yd delivered: $135
- Pier blocks (8 blocks): $60
- Assembly labor (DIY): $0
- Total project cost: ~$3,695
Run your dimensions through the shed calculator for a detailed material list, then use the gravel calculator or concrete calculator to size your foundation before you order materials.
Permits and setback rules
Most jurisdictions have a size threshold below which you don't need a permit — often 120 or 200 square feet, sometimes smaller. Go over that and you'll need a building permit, which typically costs $50 to $300 and requires the shed to meet local setback rules (usually 3 to 5 feet from property lines and other structures). Some HOAs ban sheds outright or require architectural approval; check before you buy.
Setbacks are the reason your perfect shed spot often isn't legal. Measure from your property lines and check local codes before you prep the foundation — moving a shed after it's built is miserable and expensive. If you're unsure, call your city or county building department; they'd rather answer the question upfront than make you tear down a finished shed that's two feet over the line.
Common questions about shed cost
What size shed do I actually need?
An 8×10 or 8×12 is adequate for lawn and garden equipment — a push mower, trimmer, hand tools, and bags of soil. If you have a riding mower or want a workbench, jump to 10×12 or larger. For a workshop with room to move, 12×16 is the practical minimum. Most people undersize their first shed and regret it within a year. Measure your largest item (riding mower, motorcycle, canoe), add three feet of clearance on all sides, and that's your minimum footprint. The square footage calculator helps you convert those dimensions into area if your lot has size limits.
Do I need a floor, or can I build on a slab?
A concrete slab is your floor — the shed frame sits directly on it. Most wood kits include a floor frame and plywood deck; you'd skip that if building on a slab and save a few hundred dollars. Resin and metal sheds usually include a snap-together floor that sits on whatever base you provide. If you're pouring a slab, make sure it's level and has a slight pitch for drainage — even a quarter-inch per foot is enough to keep water from pooling.
Can I move a shed later if I need to?
Small prefab sheds (8×10 or smaller) can be disassembled and moved, though it's a hassle and you'll likely crack a few panels. Wood sheds 10×12 or larger are movable only as intact structures — you'd need a trailer, a crew, and a lot of care. Assume any shed over 120 square feet is permanent once built. If there's any chance you'll want to relocate it, either go smaller or build it modular (bolted instead of nailed) from the start.
Should I insulate a shed?
Only if you're using it as a workshop or studio and plan to heat or cool it. Insulation costs $200–$600 for a 10×12 shed and makes almost no difference for pure storage. Tools and equipment are fine in an uninsulated shed as long as the roof doesn't leak. If you're spending more than a few hours a week inside the shed, insulation plus a small heater or fan makes it comfortable year-round. Otherwise, skip it and save the money.
The bottom line
Budget $800 to $1,500 for a small prefab resin shed, $2,000 to $5,000 for a DIY wood kit, and $5,000 to $12,000+ for a contractor-built custom shed in 2026. The foundation adds $100 to $1,500 depending on whether you're spreading gravel or pouring a slab, and extras like electric, windows, and double doors can push the total up fast. Size your shed generously — most people underestimate their storage needs — and check local setback and permit rules before you prep the site. A well-built wood shed on a solid foundation will outlast the lawnmower you're storing in it.